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Journal Archive

41 entries, 51 prefectures, one long road. 旅の記録

Day 1
Sun, 4 Jun 2023

It'll Work Out

Leaving London for Japan at last! With four years of uni behind me and a mix of sadness and excitement, I got on the plane. No idea what's coming, but it'll work out.

Day 2
Mon, 5 Jun 2023

Plenty of People Stood There Staring

The 12-hour flight was longer than I'd ever imagined. Then at Haneda I had 20 minutes to haul all my luggage between terminals, making the train by seconds while people stared in disbelief.

Day 3
Tue, 6 Jun 2023

It'd Be Embarrassing to Give Up on Day One After Coming All This Way

I landed in Fukuoka and finally set off on a bike loaded with far too much luggage. After visiting three temples in Sasaguri and riding through fireflies, I spent my first night at a free campsite beside a waterfall.

Day 4
Wed, 7 Jun 2023

Japanese People Really Are Kind

I rode 64 km from the campsite to Kitakyushu through rain and humidity. Comparing it with my Scotland tour three years ago, it was a day of noticing just how many convenience stores there are and how kind people in Japan can be.

Day 5
Thu, 8 Jun 2023

Kitakyushu Is So Beautiful, Why Would You Need to Go Abroad?

The morning began with radio exercises alongside a group of elderly locals, then it was past the Kanmon Bridge and on into Yamaguchi. A hot 93 km day that ended with an old lady waving me off down a 200-year-old road.

Day 6
Fri, 9 Jun 2023

I Could Buy Five Onigiri for That

Sore legs, a headache, and heavy rain all day meant I only managed 55 km. Even so, I stopped at Mangan-ji and Hōfu Tenmangū in Hōfu, and embarrassed myself with a slip of the tongue at a convenience store.

Day 7
Sat, 10 Jun 2023

Is That an Island up in the Sea of Japan?

With nowhere to stay along the way, I rode the full 95 km from Shūnan to Hiroshima. A day of kindness at a bike shop, a chat with a schoolboy, and being chased by deer at Itsukushima Shrine.

Day 8
Sun, 11 Jun 2023

This time it hit me suddenly

A rest day in Hiroshima. The Atomic Bomb Dome hit me hard, and I was drawn to the strange darkness and liveliness of the city at night. After five days in the countryside, a big city was quite a shock.

Day 9
Mon, 12 Jun 2023

I Ended Up Sleeping for 11 Hours

Seventy kilometres of nothing but mountain roads. I didn't make it to Onomichi, but the rice fields lifted my spirits, and I pitched my tent at eight and slept like a log.

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