Foreigners Traverse

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Journal Archive

41 entries, 51 prefectures, one long road. 旅の記録

Day 10
Mon, 12 Jun 2023

"A Foreigner Is Coming"

Two strangers treated me at a 7-Eleven, I fuelled up on Onomichi ramen, and then it was onto the Shimanami Kaidō. It was longer and tougher than I expected, but a kind couple on Ōshima guided me to a campsite.

Day 11
Tue, 13 Jun 2023

I Thought I'd Never Get Off This Island

Endless ups and downs on the mountain road, plus a puncture, before I finally escaped the island. In Imabari, Shio-san moved me with a handmade charm, and in Saijō I sweated my way through a plate of teppan Napolitan.

Day 12
Wed, 14 Jun 2023

Don't Forget: Where There's an Uphill, There's a Downhill

A day's ride from Niihama to Marugame. I wrote down the touring tips I've picked up so far, along with sixteen reasons I'm doing this tour, for the days when my motivation dips.

Day 13
Thu, 15 Jun 2023

If You're in Takamatsu, It's Got to Be Udon

A 25 km ride through the rain to Takamatsu for a half-day rest. I ate the udon I'd been recommended and was stared at by fifteen old men in the onsen. My body recovered, but mentally it was a tiring day.

Day 14
Fri, 16 Jun 2023

I Wish We Had That Kind of Culture in the UK

I took the ferry to Shōdoshima, got so caught up chatting with Uchiyama-san that I only just made the next one, and in Himeji a fisherman called Nori-san treated me to station soba that was ridiculously good.

Day 15
Fri, 16 Oct 2026

Praying in My Tent That It Doesn't Rain

The road from Himeji to Kobe was full of encounters, starting with Kenji-san, who treated me to katsudon. But that night my campsite turned out to be a block of flats' car park, so I had no choice but to pitch my tent in a riverside park.

Day 16
Sat, 17 Oct 2026

Almost Everything in the Vending Machines Was 50 Yen

I pitched my tent on a riverbank overlooking Osaka, tried my first internet café, and ate takoyaki and okonomiyaki. That night I drank and sang karaoke with Toshihiko-san in Nishinari, then shared a 50-yen coffee.

Day 17
Sun, 18 Oct 2026

I Really Do Love Kyoto After All

I followed a riverside route to Kyoto, wrote up twenty-two culture shocks I've noticed so far, and met Yoshihiro-san again for curry udon at Kyoto Station. I'd had my doubts before coming, but Kyoto won me over.

Day 18
Mon, 19 Oct 2026

Just Kidding, Mum!

A day in Kyoto visiting shrines and checking out Ogawa Coffee, which Ed had recommended. I also wrote about the two reasons I keep this blog, and about my grandad, the person I respect most.