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Day 11 · 13 Jun · Ōshima → Saijō

I Thought I'd Never Get Off This Island

Endless ups and downs on the mountain road, plus a puncture, before I finally escaped the island. In Imabari, Shio-san moved me with a handmade charm, and in Saijō I sweated my way through a plate of teppan Napolitan.

Distance79.5 km
Elevation Gain714 m
Total So Far2013.3 km

The mountain road was brutal. To get to Imabari I had to go over a mountain road. It was one climb and descent after another. It was really tough. I also got a puncture on the way down, so I had to change the inner tube. It took so long that I thought I'd never get off this island for the rest of my life.

The ramen I'd been recommended before was so good that I felt like trying the local specialities of the other cities too. Imabari's speciality is yakibuta tamago meshi (roast pork and egg on rice), so I went to eat some. I had it at a roadside diner near the port, and it was seriously delicious. The meat and eggs were good for topping up my protein too. I also talked to two men called Yū-san and Shio-san. They said they work for an Imabari towel company. They're both in a Hawaiian music band, and Shio-san is a monk as well. Both of them were really kind and funny. As I was leaving the diner, Shio-san pulled up in his car. He'd gone home and brought something back. As a present, he gave me three kinds of sweet bun and a charm. I was told that Shio-san had made the charm himself at a shrine. He said that with this charm, the tour will finish safely and it will help with my future and my dreams too. I was truly moved, and honoured. If I make it to Aomori, I want to send him a souvenir to show my gratitude.

I also went to Imabari Castle, and it was lovely. I don't know why, but apparently there are lots of castles in Shikoku.

Saijō's speciality is teppan Napolitan. I wanted to try it, so I had it as part of a hamburger steak set meal. It came with a large portion of rice and miso soup, so it was far too much food. I only just managed to finish it, and I was dripping with sweat. It was 1,200 yen, but in the UK it'd probably be half as tasty and about three times the price.

My knees have been hurting lately, so every night I've been icing them. Every time, it melts all over the tent, which is a pain. Grrr.