A lot happened today, so writing it up might be hard work. What I can say for certain now is that, from the time I came to Japan right up to the present, today was the most interesting day.

After Murakami there's absolutely nothing, not even a convenience store! It's 135 km from Niigata to Tsuruoka, so today I'm going to Murakami. Tomorrow I'll go as far as Tsuruoka.

The weather was hot again, and the whole 55 km was beautiful coastline. I also suddenly came across a big Buddhist statue by the side of the road. I was really surprised.

About halfway, I met another touring cyclist. He looked elderly, but his luggage was insane. I was amazed. When I asked, "isn't it heavy?", he replied, "it's far too heavy." It made my luggage look light by comparison. I thought, from now on I'll try not to complain. When I looked at his legs, they weren't particularly big, so I suddenly wondered how he manages to ride. Honestly, I couldn't believe it. He also showed me photos from when he toured Europe at the age of 22. At 22 he went all the way around Europe and rode his bike for four years! I was amazed that he'd been the same age as me then! Bikes back then weren't fast like modern bikes either, so it must have been far harder than it is now. He's 75 now and apparently rides 100 km a day! Meeting him left me in awe, thinking that anything is possible.

When I stopped at a 7-Eleven, I met an old lady called Tei-san. Apparently Tei-san has met lots of travellers over the past five years. She showed me photos, and many of them were people who'd cycled all the way around Japan. She asked, "how about I show you around Murakami?", and I instantly answered, "yes please." She led the way to Murakami by car, and at her house I met her husband, Takashi-san, too. After chatting for a bit, we also talked about working holidays. They both suggested that we pray for me to find a good job. We prayed together in front of the Buddhist altar, they explained how to pray, and they gave me a prayer book and prayer beads as well. I read along while listening to the prayer, but I don't really understand the Buddhist terms. Tei-san showed me around Murakami by car, and also pointed me to a spot by the sea where I could pitch my tent.

I'll send a letter and a gift after the tour, but I don't have time now, so I'll write the contents of the letter below.

Dear Tei-san and Takashi-san,

Thank you so much for yesterday! I'm so happy that you treated me kindly from the very start and showed me around beautiful Murakami. Of all the towns from Fukuoka to here, Murakami may be the most beautiful. You both seem so happy that I'm envious. Thanks to the two of you, today may have been the best day since I arrived in Japan. I'm also glad I got to learn a little more about Japanese culture and Buddhism. I didn't know how to show my gratitude, but if I make it to Sapporo, I'll send you a gift. Thank you so much!

Finn

The evening sun was sinking In a panic I raced through the streets of Murakami I have to see the sunset from the shore Only 3 km, I can still make it I finally arrived and let out a huge sigh As if seeing a friend off at the airport, I simply gazed at the sunset The sky looked as though it had been sliced open by a great sword At the very, very end, only a thin, warm sliver remained It looked like a portal to another world Slip through, and you could find anything Even so, I still want to stay Here is fine. This world is good enough

When I went to pitch my tent at the spot by the sea, big flying beetles suddenly appeared. I've seen all sorts of insects since coming to Japan, but this was the scariest. Hundreds of beetles came flying in my direction as if they were trying to attack, and every so often one would smack into my head. I quickly grabbed my tent and fled the shore. I couldn't camp on the beach, so I had no choice but to pitch the tent on the ground.

There was also a big light and a speaker. The beetles were drawn to the light, but the speaker was giving off a high-pitched sound, and the beetles were being knocked out of the air. The number that had been knocked down gradually grew, lined up across the ground. It was a strange sight. Hundreds of them were stuck on the ground, unable to move, and even when they tried to fly up, they were knocked down again in an instant. To avoid the beetles, I pitched my tent just outside that perimeter. The beetles in that area were trying to get to the light rather than to my tent, so I managed to get through the night safely and beetle-free.